Our plan
We walked from Seegräben to Perranporth in Cornwall / England in 69 days. We arrived in Perranporth in the afternoon of 5.6.2024.
Our route took us through north-western Switzerland to Basel and across Burgundy and Champagne to Paris and via Rouen to Dieppe on the Channel coast. We crossed under the English Channel by cab shuttle / train. From Swanage we continued through Dorset, Devon and Cornwall to Perranporth on the Atlantic coast. We then visited the "Little Harbour" children's hospice in St. Austell.
1,600km for an important cause and a cause close to our hearts: A charity run for children's hospices!
We walked a lot, an average of over 5.5 hours per day or around 24 km per day, up and down, and in all weathers.
The longest daily distance was 31 km. The day's stage with the most vertical meters was in the county of Dorset with a total of 580 vertical meters and a distance of 25 km. The buggy weighed around 40 kg on average.
Diary
Week 1 - Seegräben to Basel
Total 162 km | 27 km per day
So here we go, the starting signal has been given on a rainy spring day. We warm up, gain our first experience and make good progress. Our converted "baby jogger stroller" from the 90s proves its worth. We don't make as much progress on narrow paths as we do on the well-maintained cycle paths.
Week 2 - Basel to Vesoul
Total 160 km | 23 km per day
We have arrived in France! The April weather makes for damp and muddy ground, which is why we switch to the paved long-distance paths. The dogs enjoy a free run along the many canals, we make a pilgrimage and enjoy the peace and quiet.
We are already preparing ourselves for the British "bed & breakfast" accommodation in the so-called "chambres d'hôtes". We realize that we are a bit spoiled in Switzerland when it comes to dog-friendliness.
Week 3 - Vesoul to Langres
Total 136km | 27 km per day
We continue to make good progress in very rural areas. As the weather is now noticeably warmer, we set off early in the morning to take advantage of the cooler temperatures. The dogs also need frequent breaks and we are grateful for shady resting places. Some of the accommodation turns out not to be particularly dog-friendly, but our gift for improvisation helps us to find a more suitable route and so we adjust our original plan slightly. On our well-earned rest day, we get our first taste of the Seine and Paris comes within reach. Langres is a tranquil little town on a hill, numerous small houses adorn the town walls and we enjoy the view over the lake.
Week 4 - Langres to Troyes
Total 161km | 23 km per day
Anyone who thinks that the corks are popping in Champagne is mistaken: it's cold. It is windy. And it is sometimes wet. The big challenge is to leave the accommodation as late as possible in the morning and get back to the next accommodation as early as possible. The artificial lakes near Dienville are impressive, and our vehicle has become noticeably lighter in the meantime: Almost all the dog food has been eaten by now.
All the more reason for us to take a rest day in Troyes. We receive a visit from our good friend Roger Baud. He provides us with a few logistical necessities, including special food for the dogs: the usual monoprotein is important for Leo and so our car is a few kilograms heavier.
Week 5 - Troyes to and through Paris
Total 239km | 24 km per day
We are gradually approaching Paris. This motivates us. After Troyes, we enjoy the wide landscapes once again. Every now and then a highway or a busy TGV line brings a change of pace. Shortly before Fontainebleau, the landscape and especially the settlements change. We now run through large deciduous forests with a dense network of tracks and paths, all car-free. The dogs can move freely - our journey becomes more relaxed. After another 9 days, we reach Paris from the east, along the Seine. Shortly before the "Gare de Lyon" we feel Paris: lots of traffic, police with flashing lights and sirens, metro stations, large parks, brasseries on the streets and, above all, lots of tourists.
In the meantime, we have found our rhythm and are making good progress. Stephanie plans the daily stages about 3-5 days in advance. Thank you very much. Route planning is time-consuming because at this time of year many accommodations are still closed for the season and not all of them can accommodate dogs. The detailed planning of the routes is usually done the evening before. If we're lucky, one or two restaurants will be open the following afternoon. There's then something warm to eat for us and extra rest breaks for the dogs.
And the weather in the fifth week: hardly anything has changed - still cold, damp and windy. Our choice of clothes, footwear and, above all, our "pilgrim's cart" have proved their worth.
The dogs are also doing well. Netti walks about half the distance and can then be transported in the car. Leo covers the whole distance himself. Both need longer rest periods. We therefore make sure that we are at the next accommodation between 15.00 and 16.00 at the latest. This is followed by the obligatory room hour for the dogs, during which we plan the route and the next stages of the day. Later we have dinner, if possible out, if a restaurant is open nearby.
Week 6 - Paris to Rouen
Total 166 km | just under 24 km per day
We hiked from the outskirts of Paris to Rouen in seven days. It was a very varied route, sometimes through a deciduous forest on narrow paths, then again along the Seine on well-maintained cycle paths and also on paved roads through the countryside, mostly on roads with little traffic. The weather was also kind to us. And we have now hiked more than 1,000 km. All in all, it was a beautiful and eventful week of hiking.
There are also significantly more people on the road than four weeks ago. People greet each other: "Bonjour". There are always conversations. We have definitely arrived in France. And we stand out with "Poppa-Schesa" and our two dogs. The planned distance of 1,600 km is impressive. We are asked incredulously: "All on foot?". Yes, of course...
It gets more difficult when it comes to the "charity run". The issue of children with life-limiting illnesses is not an issue in France either. The fact that there are 10,000 children and young people in Switzerland who are dependent on palliative care remains an abstract figure. Most people lack context and, above all, a sense of concern. A lot of educational work is still needed. Many thanks to the members of the Seegräben trade association, who are providing me with intensive support.
What are the best memories of this week? It's definitely the encounters, the town of Giverny (keyword: Claude Monet) and, above all, the hiking trails along the Seine. The paths are mostly right next to the Seine. There are no houses blocking the way. This makes hiking fun. Near settlements, the paths often resemble parks, while in the countryside they are narrow paths, some of which are almost overgrown. This variety is both fascinating and entertaining. Near Rouen, the picture changes - the weekend and vacation homes become larger, the gardens in front of them more manicured. There is also a noticeable increase in life - which we are delighted about.
Planning is still time-consuming. Many "chambre d'hote" are not yet open, and the hotels and "chambre d'hote" that are open refuse dogs. Nevertheless, we had everything: accommodation on a houseboat on the Seine, a guest room in the countryside on a small farm in the forest, in a hotel right on the Seine with a lawn and deckchairs right on the Seine, an apartment and "normal" hotels.
Stephanie has already made the plans for the remaining stages to Dieppe. Our dogs have to be officially dewormed 24 hours or no later than 72 hours before crossing to England. We have the relevant vet appointment in Dieppe. And our cab shuttle has also been organized. That's why our friends in Swanage (England) have already reserved a table for us in the "Black Swan" on the Friday evening before Whitsun.
Week 7 - Rouen to Dieppe (on the Channel coast)
Total 104 km | 26 km per day
We have been on the road for 49 days or seven weeks. We have now arrived in Dieppe on the Channel coast. We walked a total of 1,162 km in just over 270 hours, an average of just under 24 km per day.
From Rouen and Dieppe, we hiked through the beautiful and wide landscapes of Normandy. The landscape was somewhat hilly, small-scale, with small sections of forest and hedgerows, some arable farming and livestock farming. The hike was entertaining. We walked through small villages, each with a church and a (small) mairie (easily recognizable by the many French flags on the facade). There were no restaurants, bakeries or stores. Either closed forever or they have never existed. So we are not only transporting our dog food through Normandy, but also our food...
We follow the few shelters again and therefore walk up and down a hill every now and then. In the end, it's a few meters in altitude per day.
Another "voie verte" was impressive and loved by us. These hiking and cycling trails are simply brilliant. We walked another 20 km away from the roads and almost forgot to turn off to our next accommodation, which was of course a little off the beaten track again. We will always have fond memories of this "voie verte" or "chemin vert" in France.
We reach Dieppe, a larger town on the Channel coast. There is also a direct ferry connection to England. Unfortunately not for us! As pedestrians with dogs, this particular combination is not possible. So on Friday we will take a cab shuttle directly from Dieppe via Calais-Folkestone (Channel Tunnel) to Swanage near Bournemouth. Before that, we have an appointment with the vet to have our dogs officially dewormed. They can then enter England at the earliest 24 hours later or at the latest 72 hours after taking the medication. We also get through this procedure and walk the last three kilometers to the sea. And the weather is beautiful. We sleep right by the sea in one of the many hotels. We deserve it and we enjoy it.
We will be in England on Friday evening. A table has already been reserved at the "Black Swan" in Swanage. We are looking forward to seeing our English friends. Saturday will be a rest day as a result of the strict Friday evening and the time change in England...
Week 8 -Dieppe and on to England
Total 107 km | 21 km per day
We are on the road for 56 days or 8 weeks. We will soon be in Exeter (Devon). So far we have walked a total of 1,270 km in just over 300 hours.
We are now in England. After a rest day in Dieppe (F) and Swanage (UK) as well as a day for the cab ride to England, we are now walking on to Cornwall.
We have planned the stages to be a little shorter, partly because of the dogs and partly because of the hilly terrain. We hike up and then down again. At the end of the day, there are many meters of altitude, far more than before in France. Our aim is to walk around 20 km or a little more every day.
The three-day interruption disrupted our rhythm more than we had previously thought. On the one hand, we were busy planning the last stage in England (and mentally also the return journey). On the other hand, the distances we hiked on the rest days were significantly shorter (the engine got cold)
In the meantime, we have been walking for several days and have found our rhythm again. We have now walked through Dorset and are already in Devon. We enjoy the mostly beautiful weather, the green and varied landscape and the numerous encounters. It is both exciting and very touching to talk to different people about children's hospices. The need for this service is never questioned here in England. Children's hospices are well known in England and they are supported. The response to our charity run is therefore great. In many cases, it is people who have had to deal with the death of family members who spontaneously approach us again and again. Thank you for these valuable conversations.
We are making progress. We are now walking through wonderful landscapes in the county of Devon. We attract attention and are approached, especially in the countryside. We receive spontaneous donations for the children's hospice in St. Austell, for which we also collect money in England. This makes us very happy. This morning, for example, a man stopped, asked if it was a charity run and gave us £5, just like that, without asking. On behalf of everyone who has donated over the last few days: thank you very much.
We enjoy the many encounters and conversations in different places. This morning, for example, I bought our lunch in a small local store. I quickly became part of a conversation with customers. They were amazed by our project. The owner then asked me to sign a petition for the preservation of the local elementary school. I told her that I was Swiss. She said: "Your signature is very valuable! We need this one too!". I signed it and she thanked me warmly. I therefore hope that the primary school in Tipton St. John will be preserved, because education is important.
Stephanie has planned the last stages in the meantime. Thank you very much. It was also difficult to find suitable accommodation in England. Either dogs were not allowed or the hotels and B&Bs were too far away from our hiking route. But we managed that too. There are now just under two weeks to go until Perranporth. We will manage and enjoy these two weeks too.
Week 9 - Devon and Dartmoor
Total 151 km | 21 km per day
We have been on the road for 63 days or 9 weeks. We have covered a total of 1,420 km. We will be walking through Cornwall in the coming week and are expected to be in Perranporth on 4.6.2024. This is 2 weeks earlier than planned.
We are in Devon. We really like Devon. We've been here several times. We know Dartmoor in particular well. It looks different every time. That's why we were really looking forward to this section of the route.
Dartmoor is a nature reserve in the middle of Devon at 200 - 600 meters above sea level, which is higher than the surrounding area. In the west there are extensive moorland areas which are only used for limited agricultural purposes. Here you can find wild ponies, the so-called Dartmoor ponies. These are a remnant of the mining industry. Sheep and a few herds of cows also graze here. The remains of a former mountain range can still be seen on the hills. These look like castle ruins from afar. This is typical of central and western Dartmoor. These rock formations are often called Tor, e.g. Haytor Rock or Bellever Tor. The highest are up to 600 m above sea level. There are many prehistoric structures in this area, such as stone circles (e.g. Stone Circle Grey Wethers) and other structures (e.g. Grimpspound near Postbridge).
Dartmoor in the east is sheltered from the weather. The local climate is not as harsh. This is why Dartmoor in the east is used more intensively for agriculture. There are also many vacation homes with distant views to Exeter and the British Riviera (Torquay, Paignton). These are located behind hedges and are hardly visible.
After warming up in Dorset, we are now finally on Dartmoor. We have chosen the route across Dartmoor. The starting point was Exeter in the south-east with the intention of marching across Dartmoor to the north-west. Important places for us were Bovey Tracey, Widecombe-in-the-Moor, Bellever, Postbridge and Princetown. This route includes all facets of Dartmoor. We stayed overnight in Trusham, Haytor Vayle, Two Bridges and Peter Tavy, in a pub, a (luxury) hotel, a country inn and finally in a simple B&B. We liked "The Moorland Hotel Haytor" the best. It is beautifully situated next to Haytor Rock, a vantage point on Dartmoor from which you can see a large part of Dartmoor. For the first time, we sat relaxed on a beautiful sun terrace in the sun and enjoyed the late afternoon with our dogs to the full. A well-tended garden in front of us. Behind us, a bright dining room with comfortable chairs. Next to it, a bar and plenty of comfortable seating as a substitute for our own living room. In addition: spacious room, good bed and impeccable hygiene. To summarize: It is and will probably remain our best overnight stay in one of the most beautiful places of our hike.
As good as the hotel was, the weather was just as "bad". It would be more accurate to say that the Dartmoor weather was typical: wet, strong winds and cold. We expected nothing less and were therefore not disappointed. You really have to experience this region. The core stage was rather long (25 km) and the differences in altitude were large (around 500 meters) and there was no pub or similar on our route, which was open on Monday morning. Never mind. All the more reason to look forward to the next accommodation at the end. For us, this was the "Two Bridges Hotel" in Two Bridges, a place that essentially consists of the hotel and two bridges, an old small bridge and a somewhat newer one. The main thing was that the hotel was dry and the food was good.
And the donations: Despite the rain and wind, over £100 was raised. All the donations I collect in England go directly to the children's hospice in St. Austell.
Stephanie has planned the last stages. Thank you very much: We have suitable stages ahead of us, often through beautiful landscapes far away from traffic, passing pubs and spending the night in beautiful places.
Despite the joy of hiking and the fact that we have (probably) walked to Cornwall in just 10 weeks, we are looking forward to the day of our return journey. We will probably be back in Seegräben in mid-June. Above all, I'm looking forward to seeing my family.
Week 10 - Cornwall
Total 145 km
We have been on the road for 70 days or 10 weeks. We have covered a total of 1,574 km.
We are staying in Perranporth for another week and will break the "1,600km mark".
We expect to be back in Seegräben on 15.6.2024.
We left Dartmoor in the northwest and first walked to Launceston, our first stop in Cornwall. It was moving for me to cross the River Tamar. This river is the border river between Devon and Cornwall. Now we are in Cornwall.
We are pleased to report that the weather was ideal for a long-distance run. We had cold days at the end of March and occasionally some rain and strong winds. This was followed by a warm, almost too warm week. To be honest, the last 7 weeks have been ideal weather-wise for walking with dogs: mostly dry and not too warm, and certainly not hot. After a rainy day on Dartmoor a week ago - it was bound to happen - we've now had a long spell of fine weather: sunshine every day, blue skies, a bit of wind, and a maximum temperature of 20-22°C. This is nothing out of the ordinary for Cornwall. This is nothing out of the ordinary for Cornwall. However, good weather also has a decisive disadvantage: without storms, there are no real waves on the Atlantic coast. High waves, i.e. waves of 1.5 m or more, are only experienced here if there has been a storm in the west.
Walking in England was different, and not just because of the landscape, the language and the "left" way of driving. In Dorset, Devon and Cornwall, we didn't walk on signposted (long-distance) footpaths. We looked for small paved roads with little traffic. We were able to move our "Poppa-Schesa" so easily. In England, however, the small roads are hardly signposted, especially not as long-distance hiking trails like in Switzerland. So we had to constantly consult the hiking map and/or Komoot hiking app to check whether we were still on the right path. This is tiring and distracts us from "continuous walking". It was therefore not our beloved pilgrimage as we knew it from the Way of St. James. Never mind, we neither got lost nor did we make any detours because of it.
And our standard challenge, the search for suitable accommodation: This problem has been a recurring theme throughout our trip. This didn't change in Cornwall either. Stephanie made the search and booking perfect again.
In the 10th week we stayed in a hotel, on a farm with another 5 dogs and in a vacation cottage. In the meantime, we have slept in almost 70 different beds in different places (more or less well) - that's enough. This was probably the biggest ordeal for our dogs. We are therefore glad that we have a vacation apartment for the last week in Perranporth and that we no longer have to push our "Poppa-Schesa" around.
1,600 km is a long way. We reached our destination after 69 days, much faster than planned. One of the main reasons for this is the fact that we did without rest days for the most part. In hindsight, this was an important and correct decision: It kept us in rhythm. And the best thing is that we have now reached the Atlantic in good health.
Week 11 - Perranporth
After 69 days we arrived in Perranporth, 2 weeks earlier than planned.
We stay in Perranporth for a week and walk along the coast.
We have now walked a total of 1,640 km or 396 hours.
We've been to Perranporth several times before, always by car. This time it was different: we walked. Not alone, but with our two dogs and our "Poppa-Schesa". It was a great experience. We walked through endless landscapes in Burgundy and Champagne, sometimes along canals or on a "voie verte", with a few restaurants and grocery stores. Then we went through the greater Paris area, first through suburbs and large forests (Fontainebleau), then along the Seine past the Gare-de-Lyon to the Eiffel Tower, and on to Rouen and Dieppe. Here we stood by the sea for the first time. After the cab ride to Swanage, we walked through Dorset, Devon and Cornwall, mostly on narrow side roads with hedgerows and "green tunnels". The elevation gain was considerable - up hills and down hills, up to 600m per day. We were getting closer to our goal. And on day 69: we were standing on the Atlantic. For us, it wasn't 69 hard days, but felt like a shorter period of time with lots of unforgettable moments.
The evening after we arrived, we visited Phil and his two sons. I've known Phil for 19 years now. We both have birthdays on June 13. We met Phil and his sons several times in the following week, for example at a training evening for the "young lifesavers" on the beach. Here in the Alpine regions it's the local ski club or the Muki gymnastics/youth club, and in England on the beach it's the RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Institution). Our friends from Swanage also visited us for a few more days, as did Simon and his partner - they brought us the car so that we could travel back to Seegräben with our dogs more easily.
We walked the coast north and south of Perranporth in the 11th week in absolutely beautiful weather: sunny, around 15° and windy. On one side the cliffs and the turquoise sea, on the other the remains of mining or green landscapes. It was a relaxing week's vacation in and around Perranporth.
I was still walking around with my yellow protective vest and quickly struck up a conversation. Yes, the topic of "children's hospices" is much more present than here. People know about these hospices, are proud of them and are happy to donate to them. In England, I also collected money for the three children's hospices in the southwest of England.
The visit to the Little Harbour children's hospice in St Austell on Tuesday, June 11, 2024, shortly before the return journey, was a very moving moment for me. First of all, the reception: "Thank you" was written on a banner. And we were given a wooden medal with the inscription: "I helped to raise smiles for children's hospice SOUTH WEST". Then the tour of the hospice and the huge garden. I was impressed to see how kindly children with life-limiting illnesses and their parents and siblings are treated here, how these families are given comprehensive support on site or at home, the love and empathy with which this is done and how this institution is self-financing with around 90% donations: Chapeau, this is a masterstroke. My fundraising in England corresponds to approx. 0.03% of the annual budget. The children's hospice actually deserves a medal.
Many small steps add up to a big whole. We would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who has supported us, especially with donations and public relations work. On behalf of the many supporters, I would like to express my special thanks to Daniel Frangi from the Seegräben Trade Association for the "Local Heroes of Raiffeisenbank" part, to Nicola Presti from the Swiss Children's Hospice Foundation and to Florentin Züst for the video clips and maintaining the homepage.
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